Kevin Tiller

I got up late and was walking the dog, Charley, when I met a guy who asked if I’d been swimming yet as the tide was very high. I hadn’t even been to the beach but from the wharf I could see – big waves, ferry cancelled. Rushed home and got the board out. Totally wiped out even just trying to get the board past the breaking waves on Hordern’s beach. Gouged out part of my shin on a wipeout. Eventually make it up and round the point. I wanted to catch the bay surf but the wind was strong going one way, the tide another and the waves another so that it was just hard work. Lots of stand up paddlers and regular surfers all the way down at Bonnie Vale.

It just made me think of the waterboys  – this is the sea ! Watch the video and you’ll know what I mean!

Anyway I fell of a couple of times and just kneel/paddled the rest of the way in to Bonnie Vale and carried my board home – I was just too inexperienced to go with the big boys. I felt like a little kid but they have probably been doing it 20yrs+. It was pretty wild. Remember the phrase “do something that scares you each day”? well I certainly did it today.